Climbing Rules and Regulations

• PERMISSION
• Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix 1 must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix 2. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. Each climbing party will be given a permit as prescribed in Appendix 3. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.
• PAYMENT OF FEE
• Fee Structure for Group "A" NMA Peaks
  Royalty for up to seven members : USD 500.00
  Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons : USD 100.00
• Fee Structure for Group "B" NMA Peaks
  Royalty for 1-4 members : USD 350.00
  Royalty for 5-8 members : USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per person
  Royalty for 9-12 members : USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per person
• For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of persons in a group is 12.
• REFUND
• In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.
• FUNCTIONS & DUTIES OF THE SIRDAR/GUIDES
• To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
• To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party Spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
• To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
• To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
• To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
• To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules
• To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post.

The Sirder Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:- Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of His Majesty's Government, Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation.

Food and tent accommodation: - Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

Insurance : - All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs.200,000.00.

Nomination of representative in Kathmandu : - Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

Submission of Report : - On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA in the form prescribed in Appendix

Power to cancel the permit: - NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the regulation: - Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to HMG to take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

Protection of Environment: - Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly c lean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

Revision of the Regulations: - any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Nepal government.

Cllimbing Equipment Lists Personal:
• Down Sleeping Bag 1/1 for ABC and climbing
• Down Jacket 1
• Gore-Tex jacket Trouser or any company
• Climbing boot double best company
• Trekking Boot 1
• ICE-axe with Ice hamber 1/2
• Rucksack 2
• Crampon 1/2 set
• Stick 2 set
• Harness - 1
• Get up (Boot clover) 1 set
• Snow Glass - 2
• Main rope 15 meters
• ICE Crew - 1
• Sable small -1
• Mattress 1
• Carbine 2 single + 2 lock
• Head Light - 2
• Wind Proof Jacket & trouser
• Down Trouser
• Wind Proof Trouser
• Water Bottle
• Woolen Globe 3 set.
• Bag Cover
• Wind mask for climbing
• Climbing clove 3 best quality
• Shocks for climbing - 6 pairs
• Personal Medicine
• Eight finger
• Knife
  
Group:
• Fixed rope
• Main rope
• Medicine
• Oxygen, Mask and regulator
• Climbing tents, food, fuel, light

Some Technical Tips
The fixed Rope.
Rope fixed in the beginning of expedition and remains till last of expedition in mountain for ascending and descending purpose for climbers. Climbers attach the zoomer in fix rope so that they don't slip and fall down. Rope used in mountain as fixed rope is reliable, strong and technique proved. Everest expedition north col is fixed rope start just after glacier 6800m till to summit.

The crevasse whole.
Crevasse is empty space or deep crack a very thick layer of ice.

What is Ridge?
The pointed or little flat part between the two slopes of mountain is ridge. Usually climbers walk through ridge to climb. In Everest, most of the climbing trail is from ridge. Only below and above camp three, some part climbers have to climb through wall.

The Zoomer.
Zoomer is metal apparatus use for ascending and descending process in climbing. It is attach with harness or zoomer belt and fix with fixed rope. When you move it, it goes up and it helps you to move up or hang up.

The main Rope.
It is rope tie in your body and with 2- 3 or 3-4 climbers together in difference of 4m each. Main rope is use for safety for climbing or descending in mountain.

The Crampon.
It is metal apparatus with 10 to 12 points fixed on the bottom of plastic boots or climbing boots for climbing in ice and snow.